Ball Gown by Madame Clapham, Hull, c.1900
No expense has been spared to make this fancy ball gown.
The cream fabric is called âtambouredâ net. The net has been hand embroidered using a small wooden frame called a âtambourâ. Tambours have two hoops, one inside the other. The fabric is stretched between the two hoops to make it easier to sew.
The bodice panel has flowers embroidered in chenille and silver thread, with sparkly sequins. Chenille is a soft, fluffy cord that feels like velvet.
This dress was made by Madame Clapham, Hullâs most famous dressmaker. Rich and fashionable ladies had dresses for special occasions made at her salon.
Emily Clapham opened her dressmaking salon in Kingston Square, Hull, in 1887. By the 1890s she was regarded as Hullâs finest dressmaker. The salon attracted an international clientele of rich and stylish ladies. Madame Clapham ran the salon until her death in 1952, when her niece Emily Wall took over until 1967.
At the time this ball gown was made, upper class ladies had to follow strict dress codes. Social engagements like balls, race meetings, dinner parties and musical evenings all required different styles of dress. The salon was particularly busy before Christmas, with an array of festivities held by prominent local families.
The very latest fashions were essential for all these social occasions. To keep up to date with changing styles, Madame Clapham visited Paris three or four times a year. At this time, Paris was the centre of fashion. Madame Clapham also claimed that:
âRepresentatives of the best French houses come over periodically to wait upon me specially with their newest goods.â
Unlike other local dressmakers, Madame Clapham was able to compete with the London fashion houses. Gowns created in Kingston Square were worn by leading society ladies in London. Madame Clapham received many orders for dresses suitable for visitors to the royal court. From 1901 she advertised herself as âCourt Dressmakerâ, which added to her prestige.
