Evening Dress by Madame Clapham, Hull, c.1930-1932
This dress looks simple, but the velvet fabric is specially cut to give a flattering fit. The skirt and bodice are gathered towards a diamond-shaped piece of fabric on the dress front.
The full skirt is bias cut. This means the fabric has been cut diagonally across the grain. Cutting fabric like this makes it more flexible, so it clings to the person wearing it. The skirt measures over three and a half metres around the hem.
This dress was made by Madame Clapham, Hullâs most famous dressmaker.
Emily Clapham opened her dressmaking salon in Kingston Square, Hull, in 1887. By the 1890s she was regarded as Hullâs finest dressmaker. All of Madame Claphamâs clothes were handmade to order. The salon attracted an international clientele of rich and stylish ladies during its heyday in the 1890s and early 1900s. Madame Clapham ran the salon until her death in 1952, when her niece Emily Wall took over until 1967.
Madame Claphamâs skill was to select aspects of the latest fashions to create her own designs. Each season she bought a selection of sample gowns from the leading fashion houses of London and Paris. She designed her own creations using bodices, skirts and sleeves from different dresses. She had a talent for selecting the right colour, cut and trimmings to suit her client.
Madame Claphamâs workers did all the sewing. Their fine needlework gained her an international reputation as a dressmaker. In contrast to the luxurious salon and fitting rooms, the workrooms were cold and bare. Madame Clapham was a strict employer with high standards, and the pay for workroom girls was low. However, they took pride in their work and received good training.
There were lots of superstitions in the workrooms. Scissors falling to the ground pointing downwards foretold a funeral. A garment dropping to the ground was a sign that it would receive approval from the client.
